Method and means for producing bias fabrics



WUIIIIILE. l1

Sept. s, 1925.

Patented Sept. 8, 1925.

UNITED STATES 1,553,174 yPATENT OFFICE.

MAURICE M. KASANOF, 0F NEW YORK, N. Y.

METHOD AND MEANS FOR PRODUCING BIAS FABRICS.

Application filed August 22, 1922. Serial No. 583,613.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, MAURICE M. KAsANoF, a citizenl of the United Statesvof America, and a resident of the cityy of New York, borough of the Bronx, in the county of Bronx and State of New York, have invented a new and Improved Method and Means for P roducing Bias Fabrics, of which the following is a description.

The invention is particularly applicable to tubular fabrics for the production of individual neckties and other individual articles and has in view to produce a bias fabric fromra non-bias fabric.

The method and means for carrying out the invention4 will be readily understood from the followin description of a particular embodiment of the invention. v Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings forming a part of this specification, it being understood that the drawings are merely illustrative of practical examples of the invention. v Y

Figure 1 is a plan view of my improved .device for use in producing bias fabrics, a portion being broken away;

Figure 2 is a cross section as indicated by Y the line 2-2, Figure 1;

Figure 3 is a view similar to Figure 2 but with the expanding element hereinafter explainedl omitted for the insertion =of the device in atubular fabric;

Figure 4 is a fragmentary plan view with the tubular fabric in position the view showing the lbias form of the fabric after having been strained from its non-bias form;

Figure 5 is a view similar to Figure 4 but at the opposite side of the fabric;

Figure 6 is a. .view similar to Figures 4 and 5 but with an additional attachment and with the bias produced in opposite directions from the medial line of the fabric;

Figure 7 is a cross section on the line 7-i7, Figure 6;v

Figure 8 is a fragmentary plan view with part broken away and showing a modification t'of be hereinafter referredl to;

Figure 9 isa fragmentary perspective view Vof a part employed in the production of the fabric with a reverse bias as shown in Figure 6.'

vIn carrying out my invention I provide a body 10 having two spaced sides unitedl by screws or pins 11 at two separated transverse lines. Centrally of the body 10 between the sides thereof is adapted to be disposed an elongated flat blade-expanding element 12. The element 12, which is in the form of aflat strip, has a suitable handle 13 extending straightat one end'thereof. A stop pin 14 at Athe forward end of the device extends acrossthe space between the sides of the body and engages the notched front end of the elenient 12 to limit the forward movement thereof. The element 12 furthermore has a longitudinal seriesy of holes 15 for a purp'ose presently explained, there being registering holes 16, 17 in the opposite sides of the body 10.

Between the sides of the body 10 adjacent each side edge and at' each side of the'central space occupied by the element 12 when said element is in position, are expanding blades 18, 19 capable of longitudinal and transverse movement in the body. The one blade 18 has teeth 20 or equivalent roughened members to engage the fabric A when the device is inserted in a tubular fabric fo-r a necktie for example, the opposite blade 19 having teeth 21 or their equivalent.

The blades 18, 19 in the form shown in lFigures 1 to 8, have each an oblong slot 22 through which the screws or pins 11 pass. The longitudinal dimension of the slots 22 permits of blades 18, 19 to be moved longitudinally either in the same direction or in opposite directions in the use of the device hereinafter explained while the transverse dimension permits of the blade being ino-ved laterally to project the teeth thereof beyond the side edges of the body 10 or to withdraw the Vteeth within the side edges of the body. In blades 218, 219 in Figure 8 instead of oblong slots 22 a narrow slot 122 isprovided offset at the central portion obliquely so that the ends lie in parallel planes, a in or screw 11l passing through slot 122, the arrangement being suoli that with the longitudinal movement of a'blade as 18, for example, in the body 10, the oblique intermediate portion of said slot will cause alateral movement of the blade and saidy pin will resist a retrograde movement laterally.

In order to produce a bias fabric article by the aid ofthe described device the assemblage ofFigure 3 is inserted in the tubular fabric A, for example, Figure 4, the expanding element having been withdrawn to permit the blades 18, 19 to approach each other so that the teeth 20, 21 lie within the smooth side edges of the body 10. The fabric tube having been placed on the device the element 1 2 .is again inserted .to expand the blades 18, 119 causingfthe teeth 20, 2l Jcoproject beyond the side edges of the body and in engagement with thetube at opposite sides, The teeth 20, 21m Figures 1 and 5 are disposed in opposite directions,.the .teeth at one side being inclined forwardly and theV teeth at the opposite lside inclined rearwardly in order to prevent slipping of the fabric. .llither of lieblades 18, ,19 '-is .new moved longitudinally `to give that edge .of the fabric .longitudinal movement, o-r lthe blades 18, 19 may beinOve-d in opposite .de rections. lf the eleinentsof theidesign, as` for example, parallel `.stripes as shown, .are continuous about the ytubular fabric VAthen Figures e* and .5 lWillinrnbly represent ,opposite ,sides l:of the fabric. lyfithe .design is at one side vof the fabric only .then the `o-bliquity of the design may be .either forr Wardly from a given side. edge or rearwardly from said given side edge.

N ith the stretching' of the fabric .to l.gi-ve it a bias characterthe .device with the Afabric thereon is subjeetedto steaming'action by holding' it over .escaping steam v.from a steamer, the various forms of Vwhich I.are Well lmown and not needing illustration. The steaming of the vfabric -While .on the Vydevice gives perinanency to the bias .character of' the fabric. Said fabric may be readily removed by withdrawing the centraleleme-nt 12 and permitting the blades 18, 19 to collapse toward each other .to Withdraw their teeth Within the side edges of the body whereupon the fabric may be readily slipped from the device.

ln Figures 6, 7 and V9 means is shovvn whereby the bias character of the fabric may be from the medial line toward opposite sides for which purpose I provide a clamp strip 2st having its pins, 25, disposed in longitudinal series and spaced to enter the registering holes 16, 15, 17. For producing the double bias fabric .the bladesdesignated 118 and 119 have their teeth 120 and 121 iuclining in the same direction. lVith this form of the invention the tubular fabric designated C is placed on the device as previously described and the clamp strip 241 is applied so that its `teeth extend through the holes 16, 15 l?, said strip lying at the exterior of the fabric C. The two blades 119 and 1,20 are now moved in the same direction, the strip 24 holding the fabric immovable at the medial line. The result is that a double bias is produced in the fabric after which the fabric While still on vthe device is steamed for the fabric to become permanently set in the bias form. The fabric in Figlires 6 4and 7 isdesignated by the letter C.

The blades 18, 1 9 have at the rear .end

handles V23 disposed laterally outward in opposite directions for the convenient manipulation ofsaid blades.

I .Would state 'in conclusion thatavhile the illustrated examples constitute practical embdillents 0f my invention, I do not limit myself strictly to the exact details herein ilinstigated, since, manifestly, the same can be considerably varied Without departure from fthe spirit .of theinvention as defined in the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, I claim 1. In the :production of `bias fabric lfrom non-bias fabric, the steps.of-subjectingsaid fabric to a lateral 'straining and to longif tudinal straining to give ita bias character and then steaming .the fabric to give permanency .to .the ybias character.

2. A device for giving biasto a Vnonbias fabric, fa holder .for the :fabric Ahaving `laterally movable means at theside edges to engagethe fabric, and meansfto-expand the rst means .said ysecond means-being movable to give relative longitudinal Vmovement yto the fabric the opposite edgestofthus distort the fabric into bias form.

3. A device for producing bias fabrics from non-bias fabrics Aincluding a body adapted to receive the fabric, and blades supported .on the body ,at opposite sides and having lat their vouter .edges means to engage and later-allytension the fabric, oneof said blades being movable longitudinally l to carry the adjacent side edge of `the fabric and give .bias form :to the latter.

4. A device for produc-ing a nbias fabric from a non-bias fabric, said device including a body, blades on the body at-oppositeside's and movable laterally towardor from each other to pro-ject the side edges beyond the sides of the body or .to Withdraw7 thelsame within the sides of the body, said blades having means at .their louter edges to engage a fabric, and a spreader means adapted to be disposedin the body between "said blades atleast one of said blades being c apahle of .movement Vrelatively to lthe other to carry the 'fabric at the adjacent edge longitudinally relatively tothe opposite- .side of the fabric. i

v5. A device for producing a vbias `fabric from a non-.bias fabric comprising -a body having spaced sides, andfblades disposed 'betvveen the sides of the body at .opposite sides of the medial line, said blades "being movable transversely to pro-ject .the same beyond the sides or to Withdraw the blades- Withinthe sides and said blades furthermore being` movable ylongitudinally- Hand hayi-ng meansat their outer edges .to grip the-fzvbric.

6. A device for producing a bias fabi-fic from` a non-bias fabric comprising a Jyvbody having spaced sides, and lblades disposed between the sides of the bodyat opposite sides of the medial line, said blades being movable transversely and longitudinally and having means at their outer edges to grip the fabric; together with a spreader strip adapted to be inserted in the body along the medial line between said blades.

7. A device for producing a bias fabric from a non-bias fabric, said device including a body having means to engage the fabric at the side edges and to give longitudinal movement to the side edge portions of the fabric, and means to clamp the fabric along an intermediate line to give bias to the fabric by a longitudinal movement of the side portions relatively to the clamped@ line for giving a reverse bias to the fabric.

8. A device forproducing a bias fabric from a non-bias fabric, said device including a body having means to engage the fabric at the sideedges and to give longitudinal movement to the side edge portions of the fabric and means to clamp the fabricV along an intermediate line to give bias to the fabric by a longitudinal movement of the edge portions relatively to'the clamped portions and thereby produce a reversed bias, said clamp means consisting of a strip having pins to engage said body.

9. A device for producing a bias fabric from a non-bias fabric, said device including an elongated body, blades on the body at opposite sides of the medial line, an expanding blade element adapted to be inserted in the body between said blades, said body and said expanding element having holes which register when said element is in position, the body being adapted to receive the fabric to be treated and having means at the side edges to grip said side edges of the fabric, said blades being movable longitudinally to move the side portions of the fabric longitudinally for giving the fabric bias form, and a clamping strip adapted to be imposed on the fabric at the medial line of the body, said strip having pins adapted to pass through registering holes of the body and expanding element.

10. A device for producing a bias fabric from a non-bias fabric, said device including an elongated body having spaced sides, pins extending through the body across the space between the sides thereof, and blades disposed between the sides of the body at opposite sides of the medial line and provided with means at their side edges to grip the fabric, longitudinal slots in the blades, said pins passing through the slots and said slots being offset obliquely at an intermediate portion thereof, the blades being shiftable longitudinally in the body.

1l. A device for producing a bias fabric from a non-bias fabric, said device including an elongated body having spaced sides, pins extending through the body across the space between the sides thereof, and blades disposed between the sides of the body at opposite sides of the medial line and provided with means at their side edges to grip the fabric, longitudinal slots in the blades, said pins passing through the slots and said slots being offset obliquely at an intermediate portion thereof, the blades being shiftable `longitudinally in the body; together with an elongated expanding element adapted to be inserted in the body along the medial line between said blades.

l2. A device for producing a bias tubular fabric from a non-bias tubular fabric, said device including an elongated body adapted to be inserted in the fabric, and means on the body to strain the fabric laterally and longitudinally in directions to give the same a bias character.

13. In a method of producing a bias tubular fabric from a non-bias tubular fabric, the steps of straining the fabric first laterally and then straining it longitudinally from the non-bias to a bias character. and

giving permanent set to the bias character the fabric.

MAURICE M. KASANOF. 

